I need to tell you something I only properly understood recently, even though I’ve lived twenty minutes from the source for years now. Amarone was never supposed to exist. It’s a mistake. A genuinely accidental wine. Sometime in the 1930s, a producer left a barrel of Recioto, a sweet, dried-grape…
I promised you the full version of this story back when I first wrote about a family vineyard near Lake Garda. I’ve been meaning to sit down and give it the space it deserves ever since. So here it is, properly. All the detail the shorter version couldn’t hold. There’s…
There’s a castle at the southern tip of Lake Garda that you can only reach on foot, across a drawbridge, over water on every side. Cars stop outside the gate. You walk in like everyone has for the last seven hundred years. The Scaligero Castle in Sirmione has stood since…
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