I promised you the full version of this story back when I first wrote about a family vineyard near Lake Garda. I’ve been meaning to sit down and give it the space it deserves ever since. So here it is, properly. All the detail the shorter version couldn’t hold. There’s…
I’ve now written about four completely different ways to spend a wine vacation in the Veneto, and every single time, without fail, someone messages me asking the exact same thing. Okay, Kelly, but which one do I actually book? Fair. Genuinely fair. I’ve spent this entire series describing a castle,…
There’s a castle at the southern tip of Lake Garda that you can only reach on foot, across a drawbridge, over water on every side. Cars stop outside the gate. You walk in like everyone has for the last seven hundred years. The Scaligero Castle in Sirmione has stood since…
Here is a sentence I did not expect to write about a hotel in the middle of a city. They make their own wine. Not “they have a good wine list.” Not “the sommelier is very knowledgeable.” The family who owns Massimago Wine Suites also owns a working winery forty…
There are hotel spas and then there is the Terme della Valpolicella. Most hotel spas give you eucalyptus steam rooms, a swimming pool, and a list of treatments with names like “Serenity Journey” that involve warm stones and someone playing a flute somewhere in the background. The spa at Villa…
Most people who visit the Veneto never actually see the Veneto. They land at Venice Marco Polo airport, take a water taxi into the city, spend three days walking over bridges and eating near the Rialto, and then fly home. Which is wonderful, truly. Venice is extraordinary. But it’s also…
Some hotels are beautiful. Monastero Santa Rosa is slightly annoying. Not because there’s anything wrong with it. Quite the opposite. It’s because after spending time somewhere like this, ordinary hotels become very difficult to appreciate. You know the feeling. You return home from an incredible trip, check into a perfectly…
Some vacations help you relax. Others quietly convince you that answering emails is actually a terrible way to live. That’s more or less what happens at Almar Jesolo Resort & Spa. You arrive thinking: “A few days by the beach sounds nice.” Then suddenly: Italy can be very persuasive sometimes….
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